Closed to outsiders for much of the 20th century, Albania has long been Mediterranean Europe’s enigma. Until fairly recently its rumpled mountains, fortress towns and sparkling beaches were merely a rumour on most travel maps.

But, with the end of a particularly brutal strain of communism in 1991, Albania tentatively swung open its gates. The first curious tourists to arrive discovered a land where ancient codes of conduct still held sway and where the wind whistled through the shattered remnants of half-forgotten ancient Greek and Roman sites.

A quarter of a century after throwing off the shackles of communism, Albania’s stunning mountain scenery, crumbling castles, boisterous capital and dreamy beaches rivalling any in the Mediterranean continue to enchant. But hurry here, because as word gets out about what Albania is hiding, the still-tiny trickle of tourists threatens to become a flood.

The Albanian Riviera was a revelation a decade or so ago, when backpackers discovered the last virgin stretch of the Mediterranean coast in Europe, flocking here in droves, setting up ad hoc campsites and exploring scores of little-known beaches.

Since then, things have become significantly less pristine, with overdevelopment blighting many of the once-charming coastal villages. But worry not; while some beaches may be well-and-truly swarming in summer, with a little persistence there are still spots to kick back and enjoy the empty beaches the region was once so famous for.

The stretch of coastline dubbed the ‘Albanian Riviera’ stretches from the Roman theatre of Butrint in the south to the remote Karaburun Peninsula in the north. Along the way, the Riviera takes in easy-going beach towns, forested mountain passes, bird- and terrapin-filled marshes, noisy resort towns and brilliant snorkelling spots. Grab a beach towel and enjoy!